Where to Eat Out in Toulouse: An Exquisite Journey to Toulouse's Covered Markets
The gastronomic heart of Southwestern France, Toulouse, is a delightful haven for food lovers. A cornucopia of local delicacies awaits in the city's historic covered markets, each brimming with an array of diverse vendors and unparalleled culinary experiences. This guide will give you the perfect introduction to the "what to eat in Toulouse" conundrum, spotlighting the best places to enjoy authentic Southwest cuisine, starting with our three favorite covered markets.
The "Nocturne Victor Hugo 2023", a popular evening event that takes place at the Victor Hugo Market every summer. While markets typically close in the early afternoon, on specific days, they reopen for evening shifts, known as "nocturnes".
The Covered Markets: An Unforgettable Experience
Toulouse's three main covered markets, le Marché Victor Hugo, le Marché des Carmes, and le Marché de Saint Cyprien, each have their own distinctive character and charm. Here, you'll find boulangeries, pâtisseries, triperies, boucheries, charcuteries, oyster bars, wine bars, and fromageries - a perfect microcosm of Toulouse's culinary landscape.
Tasting the region's foundational ingredients at these markets, such as the savory saucisse de Toulouse, the indulgent foie gras a l'ancienne, and delightful rillettes d'oie, is a veritable treat for the senses. Let's not forget the amazing regional cheeses, wines, and baked goods like the irresistible chocolatine. These gastronomic delights truly paint a vivid picture of the region's rich and exciting cuisine.
The markets operate from Tuesday to Sunday, between 6:30 am and 1:30 pm. During weekends, they become particularly vibrant, buzzing with hundreds of locals and visitors who gather to share a bottle of wine and enjoy local cheeses and charcuterie. If you're a foodie wondering "what to do in Toulouse," a morning spent at these markets should be at the top of your list.
One of the stops of our Toulouse Traditional Food Tours by Maison Garcia, at the Marché Couvert des Carmes.
For visitors not yet versed in French market etiquette, here's a useful tidbit: the wine bars nestled within these markets, such as Chai Vincent at Marché de Victor Hugo and L'Envie du Sud at Marché des Carmes, offer an extensive selection of wines, but you'll find no food menus at these establishments. But don't let that deter you! These venues embrace a unique practice that allows patrons to bring their own food, provided they purchase their wine from the bar.
This convivial tradition is deeply ingrained in the local culture. Typically, the first friend to arrive secures a table and orders the wine, then promptly shares the news via WhatsApp with the rest of the party. Armed with this knowledge, the others can pick up an assortment of delectable items to share from the various market vendors en route to the rendezvous. The result is a communal feast that spans a variety of sausages, hams, cheeses, breads, and seasonal fruits, contributing to an enriching and flavorful culinary experience.
Marché Victor Hugo: The Gourmet Paradise
Address: Pl. Victor Hugo, 31000 Toulouse
As the largest of Toulouse's covered markets, Marché Victor Hugo is steeped in history. The square itself is named after the world-renowned French author, Victor Hugo, whose works such as 'Les Miserables' and 'The Hunchback of Notre Dame' have garnered him global acclaim. Victor Hugo's connection to Toulouse is through the Jeux Floraux, a literary competition dating back to the 14th century, where, at the tender age of 18, he won his first accolades. It's this claim that Toulouse feels partially responsible for his success and remembers him fondly.
This five-story market, opened in 1893, is teeming with activity from more than 75 vendors who occupy the main floor. Among the many delights of the market, Maison Beauhaire stands out as a must-visit bakery. Its owner, Jean-Luc Beauhaire, is the only baker holder of the prestigious title of Meilleur Ouvrier en France (Best Craftsman in France), known in France as MOF. Likewise, another standout spot is Maison Garcia, a charcuterie with roots tracing back to a Spanish family that migrated to Toulouse in the wake of the Spanish Civil War. Here, you can relish their famed 'saucisse de Toulouse,' of which they produce and sell over 100kg daily.
The first floor is home to five restaurants that offer remarkable value, with three-course meals available for around 20-25€. Notably, Le Magret specializes in traditional Southwestern cuisine with a focus on duck dishes, while L'Imperial boasts one of the best cassoulets in town, for only 16 €.
Marché des Carmes: A Cheese Lover’s Paradise
Address: 1 Pl. des Carmes, 31000 Toulouse
The second-largest covered market in Toulouse is the Marché des Carmes. With over 125 years of operation, the market, with its 45 vendors, has an enduring appeal. The site has a rich historical context, previously housing a Carmelite convent during the Middle Ages. However, the French Revolution led to the destruction of the religious buildings and the establishment of the market in 1892.
Among the vendors, Xavier Fromager is a notable gem. Known for being one of the best cheesemongers in the city, they also work as cheese affineurs, expertly aging the cheeses to perfection. One of their top offerings is Comté Aop -''Réserve 2020'', a cheese that showcases the best of regional produce. Another noteworthy establishment is L'Envie du Sud, a wine store adjacent to the market square. They offer an extensive selection of local and regional wines, ensuring that there's something for every wine lover, and they do ship internationally if you would like to send some of this exceptional wines home.
Marché Saint Cyprien: The Hipster Hangout
Address: Pl. Intérieure Saint-Cyprien, 31300 Toulouse
Located on the left bank of the river Garonne, the Saint Cyprien neighborhood is known for its vibrancy and hipster appeal. It's also home to the smallest of Toulouse's three covered markets. The Marché Saint Cyprien retains its original art-nouveau architecture, boasting a beautiful structure with brick and metal framing and glass windows. The market's cellars were utilized by the resistance during the Nazi occupation of France for weapons storage, adding another layer of historical significance.
The market is compact but well-curated with only 12 vendors. Notably, Boulangerie Cyprien deserves special mention as the favorite bakery in town, renowned for their chocolatine. Uniquely, they add a third bar of chocolate to their recipe, setting their offering apart as being extra gooey and delectably delicious.
Exploring Toulouse's markets is a fantastic opportunity to immerse yourself in the local culture, sample traditional ingredients and recipes, and get a taste of Southwestern French Cuisine. For a guided experience, consider joining the Toulouse Traditional Food Tour, a 3-hour, small-group tour that makes a one-hour stop at Marché des Carmes. It offers an enriching blend of gastronomy and history, from the Roman era through to the Middle Ages.
Exploring Toulouse Through a Food Tour
If you're interested in a more immersive experience of Toulouse's gastronomic scene, we recommend booking our Toulouse Traditional Food Tour. This 3-hour small-group guided food tour provides a unique opportunity to explore the city’s food culture, history, and gastronomy, including a one-hour visit to Marché des Carmes.
So whether you're looking for the best cassoulet Toulouse has to offer or wishing to explore the food culture more broadly, these markets are a must-visit. They encapsulate the culinary essence of the city and provide a delectable introduction to Southwestern French cuisine. Toulouse awaits your arrival - and your appetite!
